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Explore Spain with 9 Amazing Riojas Up to 92 Points

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By: Rachel Whiteman | Wine Spectator

April 4, 2024

Tempranillo- and Grenache-based reds star in these new reviews of bottlings from well-known Spanish wineries, most priced $30 or less

Tasting Highlights’ wine reviews are fresh out of the tasting room, offering a sneak peek of our editors’ most recent ratings—including scores and full tasting notes—to WineSpectator.com members.

In 1933, Rioja became the first Denominación de Origen (DO) in Spain, in recognition of the region’s great quality. In 1991, it was the first appellation upgraded to Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status, the highest level of achievement for a wine-producing area in Spain. Adding to its renown, Rioja’s wines consistently offer fantastic value. (In fact, of all Spanish wines Wine Spectator reviewed in 2023, from Rioja as well as other regions, more than 40 percent were priced $25 or less per bottle.) This week’s lineup spotlights this value with 9 high-quality reds priced $40 or less.

Rioja winemakers have barrel-aged their reds (made primarily from the Tempranillo grape) since the 18th century, when they borrowed aging techniques from France’s Bordeaux region. While American oak was widely used by producers through much of the 20th century, winemakers now embrace the use of French oak, either on its own or alongside American Oak, imparting secondary flavors like vanilla and butterscotch.

Rioja’s aging categories designate how much time a wine must be aged in oak and in bottle: These categories are crianzareserva and gran reserva. Most of the wines selected for this week’s Tasting Highlights are crianzas. This indicates the wines were aged for at least two years before release, including one year in oak. On the shorter end of aging requirements, crianzas are generally Rioja’s lowest-priced wines upon release, and most are fresh, accessible reds that can be enjoyed now.

Reserva Riojas and Beyond

To explore wines with a bit more development, there are excellent values at the reserva level. Aged for at least three years in total before release, reservas must spend at least one year in oak. This additional aging softens the wine’s tannic structure and allows flavors and aromas to mature (while adding a few new notes).

For those trying Riojas for the first time, these aging requirements can be helpful in understanding the styles of this region. However, many Rioja winemakers no longer feel the need to adhere to this model; this includes Bodegas Tobía, whose lightly spiced, dark-fruited Rioja Selección de Autor 2019 is the top scorer in this selection. Altogether, bottlings outside of Rioja’s traditional aging framework are definitely also worthy of attention and exploration.

BODEGAS RAMÍREZ

Rioja Ramírez de la Piscina Reserva 2018

Score: 90 | $26

WS review: Wafts of dried flowers and cigar box spices offer a subtle, fragrant thread that winds through plump cherry, plum sauce and vanilla flavors in this well-meshed red. Fresh and focused, with dense, fine-grained tannins emerging to trim the finish. Drink now through 2029. 3,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—A.N.

 

The Amazing Wines of Spain’s Rioja: Grape Varieties, Popular Wineries, Styles and More

Thanks to the fame of popular wines like Ribera del Duero and Priorat (among many others), the great wines of Spain have achieved global acclaim. Among Spain’s wine regions, perhaps the best-known is Rioja, where wineries make celebrated, ageworthy reds from the Tempranillo and, to a lesser extent, Grenache (aka Garnacha) varieties as well as complex whites primarily from the Viura grape.

Among these wines you will find a number of styles, ranging from lighter reds with cherry and citrus notes to bolder bottlings with dark fruit and spice flavors. You will also encounter several designations on the labels of Rioja wines; these indicate the amount of time the wine has spent aging. For instance, a crianza red will have spent at least two years aging (one in oak barrel), whereas a reserva wine will have spent at least three years aging (one in oak barrel) and a gran reserva wine will have spent at least five years aging (two in oak).

The acclaim of these wines doesn’t mean you necessarily have to spend a great deal to enjoy Riojas (though Riojas do frequently appear on the auction market). The region offers excellent values, many made by leading wineries such as Bodegas TobíaTorre de OñaBodegas Palacios Remondo and Bodegas Ramírez, among others. These wines also happen to be fantastic for pairing with food: Try pairing a Grenache-based Rioja with seared duck breast. And a Tempranillo-based red will go deliciously with everything from beef pot roast to Szechuan-style pork. Meanwhile, white Rioja wines are fantastic pairings for seafood (particularly shellfish) and chicken dishes.

Altogether, Rioja offers many great wines to sip or match with a meal. Discover these wonderful Spanish wines and get our scores and tasting notes for recently rated Riojas!

 

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Click here to learn more about Bodegas Ramirez de la Piscina

 

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